Audacious Life and Legend Part II

I've finished the book I spoke of in an earlier blog entry. Boy was I stoked that the author himself replied to my blog. The highlight of my blogging career, to this point anyway. Thanks again David.

Sometimes things develop in such an interesting arc. As part of my fab Fathers Day gift treasure chest, besides the aforementioned book, I received two current issues of contemporary surf mags. Surfing and Transworld to be exact.

I was struck with the absolute lack of anything substantive. Their focus seems to be two-fold: selling product and generating identities for the legions of surfers (selling product again).

Damn if Dora did not hit the nail on the head. Spot on man. I wonder if part of his pathos was coming from a spot of uncluttered fun and witnessing, and playing a part in, its descent into the morass of commercialism.

I really don't lament for the multitude of surfers that have come in the wake of our sports pioneers. They do not know any different from what they have grown up accustomed to. They can't surf Stanley's or hustle some waitress that worked at Gaviota Chevron and had Ranch access. Those experiences, like any other are unique to the individual.

What a great book! I'd love to see someone do a history on surfing at the Hollister Ranch. Now there's a complex dynamic at work:).