I've finished the book I spoke of in an earlier blog entry. Boy was I stoked that the author himself replied to my blog. The highlight of my blogging career, to this point anyway. Thanks again David.
Sometimes things develop in such an interesting arc. As part of my fab Fathers Day gift treasure chest, besides the aforementioned book, I received two current issues of contemporary surf mags. Surfing and Transworld to be exact.
I was struck with the absolute lack of anything substantive. Their focus seems to be two-fold: selling product and generating identities for the legions of surfers (selling product again).
Damn if Dora did not hit the nail on the head. Spot on man. I wonder if part of his pathos was coming from a spot of uncluttered fun and witnessing, and playing a part in, its descent into the morass of commercialism.
I really don't lament for the multitude of surfers that have come in the wake of our sports pioneers. They do not know any different from what they have grown up accustomed to. They can't surf Stanley's or hustle some waitress that worked at Gaviota Chevron and had Ranch access. Those experiences, like any other are unique to the individual.
What a great book! I'd love to see someone do a history on surfing at the Hollister Ranch. Now there's a complex dynamic at work:).
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6 comments:
I know nothing of surfing (other than the fact that I enjoy sitting on the beach and watching the guys come in), however, one thing I love to see is someone with a huge passion for something. Your passion for your family and your sport are amazing.
I am more at a loss then Bradley on surfing, I only know what I have seen in the old surfer movies. But I agree about passion. BigD, I know the perfect person to undertake the proposition you posed - YOU!!!!!
Have at is SurferBoy.
Sadly..I know nothing of surfing either (except surfing the web..that I'm pretty good at). :) But I'd put my bikini on and attend D's Surf School..hmmm..or Surf 101 with BigD..
We can work on the name. :)
I completely agree with Parker's proposition! When do you plan to begin this undertaking D? :) And... just who was hustling that waitress, hmmmm? LOL
I think you are just at the crossroads myself - between the "old" surfer generation and the "new". Surfers Journal speaks more to you and the quality writing you want to sink yourself into - rather than the shopping for boards and wetsuits that the other mags provide. Remember - to be young is to imagine having all the money in the world and look as hot as possible - and that's all you want to read about too, right? Wait... that's our culture over all... sorry ;) I digress.
Even though I'm a big chicken - sign me up for surfer school with Bliss... we'll bring Bradley and Parker with us :)
I'll borrow Borday's rubber duckie floatie.
LOL ok.. now it is time for another post D... please? :)
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