The past few days I've been consumed with reading a book that I got for Dad's Day. I initially thought it was be a nice summer read, nothing to complex. I definately got more than I bargained for.
All for a Few Perfect Waves - The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora is the title of the book. Its very well written yet I don't know if I would recommend it. Odd yet true. This book has filled my dreams and made me confront some sadness that has been long locked away.
Dora was not in the mold of your average surfer in the 50's and 60's. His hair was dark and he was ruthless. He looked to people for what they could offer him. He was the undisputed King of Malibu. His surfing abilities at that fabled spot are legendary. Fluid grace earned him the nickname of "Da Cat".
He foretold the overrunning of all surf spots and the utter commercialization of the sport that was at the core of his being. He watched the demise of the Southern California Dream. He couldn't take it, he traveled the world at the expense of others.
He had mega personal issues that really kept him from finding true happoiness. I told you this book has its hooks in me:) Missed out on so much in life to maintain the personality of Miki Dora. Complex dude and the book follows his entire life. Really makes you think about your own life path and that can't be bad.
Dead and gone since 2001. As tied to Malibu as anything else. To this day, almost 40 years since he sped across those peeling, perfect wave faces, the graffiti along the retaining wall adjacent to Malibus says it all: DORA RULES.........DA CAT LIVES
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6 comments:
Wow, how do you recommend a book like that? Perhaps only someone who truly loves the sport and understands the mind of such a person can truly appreciate it and use it to look deeper into their own lives.
You are that kind of person. I look forward to more of your vast display of all you learn through this reading.
Hi
I hope you don't mind a comment from the author. First, thanks for reading and connecting to the book. I get the sense that it was in some way painful, but I'm not sure why? To hazard a guess, from what you wrote I'm thinking that you admired Dora and found the man to be different than the myth or the principles he espoused -- but only lived up to situationally. In truth Miki was quite complex and both a hero and anti-hero. There's no way to square that and make sense. As for the book: in fact, it wasn't written for surfers (only). It had to be right as far as the culture was concerned, but it is also meant to introduce American readers outside the culture to the culture, and Dora. I'm not saying he's representative of the culture--though I think he embodies surfing's rebel heart--but he is certainly the most fascinating, enigmatic, charismatic California guy to have ridden a board in that era. Perhaps your reaction still has phases to pass through before you make a final decision about the experience. I'd welcome your further thouhts, anytime. And again, thanks for reading and discussing. -- D Rensin
The book sounds extremely interesting to me. Sounds like the trials and tribulations of a man trying to live up to expectations.
I am in no way a surfer, but this may be something I pick up for a summer read. It sounds compelling to me.
I love that you get so excited about what you read. I, too, want to know more about what makes this so compelling and yet so sad to you? Is it simply the death of a hero in your own mind? Realizing there is a human behind the mythical status?
Thank you for being such a good reading role model too - it makes a big difference to the lives of our kids to have you get excited about a book as well. AND the fact that the author took the time to respond to your blog post? Incredible! :)
I'm so stoked!
When BigD increases readship, he increases quality readship.
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